Smartphones, F-stops and why UWACAM does not have aperture control
If you have ever looked for an aperture or f-stop control in UWACAM and could not find one, this article explains why it does not exist — and why adding a software simulation would not actually help for the use cases where you would want it most.
The hardware reality: smartphone cameras have a fixed aperture
On a traditional camera — whether a DSLR, mirrorless, or compact — the aperture is a mechanical iris inside the lens. You can open it wide (f/1.8) to let in more light and create a shallow depth of field, or close it down (f/8) to let in less light and bring more of the scene into focus.
Smartphone cameras do not have this iris. The aperture is fixed at the factory — typically somewhere between f/1.6 and f/2.8 depending on the specific lens and device. No app, including UWACAM, can change this, because there is simply no moving part to control.
Quick reference — fixed apertures on common devices:
iPhone 16 Pro main camera: f/1.78 · iPhone 15 Pro main camera: f/1.78 · Samsung Galaxy S24 main camera: f/1.8
These values are fixed in hardware and cannot be adjusted by any app.
So what is the "aperture" slider in Portrait Mode and ProCamera?
Apps like Apple's built-in Camera (Portrait Mode) and ProCamera do show an f-stop slider. This is a software simulation — it does not change the lens aperture at all. Here is what actually happens under the hood:
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The device captures a depth map of the scene, using LiDAR (on Pro models) or computational stereo processing from multiple cameras.
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An algorithm uses that depth map to selectively blur pixels that are beyond a simulated focus distance — imitating the look of shallow depth of field.
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The f-stop slider simply controls how aggressively this artificial blur is applied. The optical aperture of the lens has not moved.
This is a clever effect and it works well for portrait photography in air. But it is a cosmetic post-processing step, not real aperture control.
Why UWACAM does not implement simulated aperture
For this simulation to work well, a reliable depth map is required. LiDAR and computational stereo both struggle significantly underwater:
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LiDAR uses infrared light pulses. Water absorbs and scatters infrared wavelengths very effectively, making the sensor largely useless below the surface.
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Computational stereo relies on finding matching features between two camera views. Underwater scenes — with suspended particles, backscatter, and low contrast — make reliable feature matching much harder.
We did run experiments with LiDAR under water, but had to shelve the work due to unreliable results. Until depth sensing works reliably in an underwater environment, a simulated aperture feature would produce poor and unpredictable results — and we do not want to ship a feature that makes your captures worse.
The macro diopter case — and why simulation would not help anyway
A question we sometimes receive comes from users shooting macro subjects using a close-up diopter (a +4, +8, or stronger wet lens). At close distances the depth of field becomes very shallow, making it hard to get the whole subject sharp. The natural instinct is to "stop down" to gain depth of field.
This is where it is important to understand what simulated aperture actually does:
What you need with a macro diopter
A physically narrower aperture → more of the subject in focus → greater depth of field
What simulated aperture does
Applies artificial blur to areas outside the focus plane → shallower apparent depth of field
These are opposite effects. A Portrait Mode-style aperture simulation would make the macro diopter situation worse, not better. The only real solution is a physically narrower aperture in the lens hardware — and as explained above, smartphone cameras do not have one.
Practical tips for macro shooting with a diopter
Since we cannot change the aperture, the best approach is to work with the hardware you have:
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Use a tripod or stabilised mount. At macro distances, even tiny movements cause blur. A stable rig lets you get the most out of the fixed depth of field you do have.
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Choose your focus point carefully. With a very shallow depth of field, decide which part of the subject matters most and lock focus there.
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Use the telephoto camera where possible. The longer focal length of a 3x or 5x camera combined with a moderate diopter can give you more working distance and a slightly more manageable depth of field than the main camera at very close range.
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Consider a lower-power diopter. A +4 diopter gives less magnification but a deeper depth of field than a +10. Find the minimum magnification that still lets you frame your subject the way you want.
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Shoot bursts. Small subject movements mean slightly different focus points across frames. A burst gives you more chances to pick a sharp shot in post.
Summary
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Smartphone cameras have a fixed hardware aperture — no app can change it.
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The "aperture" control in Portrait Mode and similar apps is a software blur simulation, not real aperture control.
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This simulation requires a reliable depth map, which does not work reliably underwater with current sensor technology.
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For macro diopter shooting, simulated aperture would actually be counterproductive — it adds blur rather than removing it.
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We continue to monitor depth-sensing technology for underwater environments and will revisit this if reliable solutions emerge.